Wednesday, 9 December 2015

Professional Vacate Cleaning Services in Melbourne

Welcome to Cleaning Services Melbourne – For the most professional Cleaners in Melbourne. we offers high class cleaners for commercial or residential properties. We provide cleaning service that focused on allergen reduction. We Prefer green cleaning techniques and products. Cleaning Services Melbourne offers a variety of cleaning services. We perform cleaning services from commercial to domestic. We have built our business model on reliable, professional experienced workers and our cleaning team experts usually do the cleaning as efficiently as is humanly possible. All of our cleaners are highly trained in a variety of cleaning methods and this makes the cleaning work a lot easier and more convenient. More about information Visit Website :- Or Call Us Now :- 0433 090 031

Monday, 29 June 2015

Taxi Amritsar | Ganpati tour and Travels

Hello Guys Today My Topic On one Travel Agency in Amritsar I hope U like it one thing more I have beautiful experience With Ganpati Tour and Travels in Amritsar Ganpati travels Provides are Cab in Amritsar, Taxi in Amritsar, Care rental in Amritsar, Car hire in Amritsar, Book Taxi in Amritsar

Amritsar is an important pilgrimage center and is also famous Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine contained in the travel route as a lot of people travel to Amritsar from Mumbai. Tourist circuit Mumbai - Amritsar - Jammu - Katra Vaishnodevi and back is a favorite among both foreign and domestic tourists. The crowd in the months of April and May in schools in Mumbai during peak summer holidays. Then it travels to book tickets well in advance is advised.

There are two modes of transportation

Air travel

Raja Sansi Airport in Amritsar, about 10 km from the city center, Delhi, Srinagar and Chandigarh is linked to domestic flights. Pre-book a rental car, taxi or auto rickshaw no direct flights between Mumbai and Amritsar Amritsar city can get.

The following are flights between New Delhi and Amritsar. Flights from Mumbai to New Delhi as there are every hour connecting flight from Mumbai to Delhi can be planned accordingly.

Jet Airways Konnect, respectively, to two flights daily departures 00:40 pm and 8:00 pm and depart from Amritsar to New Delhi at 14:00 and 9:20 pm HTS

Kingfisher Airlines: Departure Delhi HRA and 6:15 pm and 18:45 respectively HTS 20:10 08:00 arrival Amritsar.

Direct flight from Mumbai to Chandigarh to Amritsar to take the other choice. There are three daily flights to Chandigarh. Amritsar from there easily can be covered in five hours by car, which is just 240 kilometers.

Ganpati Tour and Travels
Phone No. +91 7814257878

Sunday, 14 June 2015

Furniture Removal and Storage in Melbourne | Top Class Movers

Today My Topic Melbourne Moving Company Guys . This is the Name of company Top Class Movers Top Class Movers Service Provides By Furniture Removal and storage in Melbourne, Cheap Removal in Melbourne, Removal Company in Melbourne , Furniture Removals in Melbourne and Removal Company Melbourne Vic.

                                 Benefits of Moving Companies Melbourne Please Read this Article  

When moving home does not always get to move into their new home the same day, this is very true when it builds and sells their current home to finance new construction. During the period from leaving your current house and move into your new home, you may find yourself in a rented house that is furnished, which means you have to store your furniture to your new building is ready.

Moving companies in Melbourne and relocation will provide a unique service, you can save time and effort and gives a company to deal with that you handle all your moving needs, instead of different companies, one for movement and one for storage. This is just the first of many benefits to choosing this type of service.

Another advantage of choosing this type of service is that you deal with professional Furniture Removals Company Melbourne that have extensive experience in the moving and relocation industry, this can reduce stress and give you the peace of mind that your furniture will be moved and stored in good condition, ready to be welcomed into their new home as soon as it is ready.

You do not have to do any heavy lifting that is a great advantage if you've spent the last few weeks crates and assembling furniture. The last thing you want in a stressful moving day with kids running worried where your bed will still have to try to bring everything into the van. Some people choose to manage their own movements, this only makes unwanted exhaustion, leaving no energy to unpack when you reach the other side.

There are a number of removal and relocation companies also offer packing service. They will send a team to his property to pack everything for you and then the next team arrives to move and store items. This can save you time and energy and is ideal if you have a young family to care and do not have time to have everything filled him.

Besides this, the removal and relocation companies have years of experience, so they can do the job quickly and efficiently. They are also insured, that can provide peace of mind. Your insurance covers any damage incurred during the movement, something that has or will cost a lot if you decide to arrange the transfer on your own.

                                                Furniture Removals Melbourne
These companies offer a quick service. They do it all the time and therefore know how to carry out first, do you place on the truck first and you are able to clean the whole house in a matter of hours. This is a welcome relief when you still want to get new ownership and get the beds made in time for a good night's sleep.There are a few of these Cheap Movers Melbourne and Moving company companies also have their own facilities relocation. This is useful if there is a gap between moving out of your current home and move into your new home. Instead of dealing with a number of companies to arrange your furniture, you deal with a company that takes care of everything for you. This can reduce stress and ensures that all your items arrive at the new property at a time.

For larger properties, these companies use more than one vehicle. In most cases they have a fleet of vans of different sizes for different size handle all movements. Which means that if you are moving from a small apartment or you're traveling for eight bedroom mansion, which will ensure all your items reach their destination on time and in good condition.

Master Relocation is a service that you provide lead-based Furniture Removal and Storage in Melbourne. The company offers a range of services Australia to residential and corporate clients on a daily basis. Besides this relocation solutions offered as an added convenience. With over twenty years of industry experience and quality and driven equipment, Master Relocation ensures successful move ever

Phone No.+61 1300 769 144

Top Class Movers
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Friday, 1 August 2014

how to assemble a personal computer

Tools and Equipment 

You will not need many tools to assemble your computer, in fact, the only one you need is a screwdriver, but if you can get most of what follows and you will see things go a little easier. 

The basic tools 

Before starting the construction or redevelopment of a computer, you should have some basic tools: 

# 2 Phillips-head (cross-shaped) screwdriver 

Needle-nose pliers 

Anti-static wrist strap 

A workspace scale 

A wrist strap alligator clip. 

Optional tools, but useful 

Other tools and equipment can be practical as well, such as: 

Action Spring grabber parties. 

electrical tape 

Son or nylon ties 

Flashlight, preferably hands-free 

A second, working computer to swap parts, find advice, seek help online, download drivers and patches, etc - very useful 

A can of compressed air - useful when working with old items that have collected dust. A better alternative, but also more expensive, is a vacuum cleaner designed to clean electronics. 


Good preparation is the key to a successful build. Before you begin, make sure you have all the tools you'll need, secure the area of ​​clear and well lit, collect all the items you will be using and unpack them one at a time, to check that all that is supposed to be there is actually present. At this point, you should let the parties themselves in their antistatic protective bags, and collect all the accompanying manuals. Now I know you want to start, but believe me, read the manuals, see the diagrams, make sure you understand where each part goes and how it attaches. If there is something you do not understand, now is the time to do a little research on additional Internet or call the manufacturer with your questions. 

Find a dry, well ventilated area to do your job. You must have plenty of light and if possible, you should choose an area without carpet on the floor, the carpet tends to generate a lot of static. An unfurnished basement is a good place to work. 


Safety precautions are important for your own safety. Please read the safety instructions. 

Safety instructions 

Static electricity is the biggest danger to the expensive parts you are about to rise, even a small shock, much too small for you to feel, can damage or destroy the delicate electronic traces, many times smaller than that a human hair, that make your CPU, RAM and other chips. It is important to use your anti-static wrist strap to prevent damage to these components. Once you have the power to block the case, cut the end of the strap to the outside of the food. (Do not connect your computer while you are connected to a bracelet.) This will ensure that you, the case and power supply are all connected to a common ground, in other words, there will no inequality of the burden that will allow a spark that passes between you and the event. It is also useful to have an anti-static mat to settle the case and other components. 

No one but you is at fault if you shock your components with static electricity. Make sure you take the precautions in the previous paragraph to ground yourself from static electricity. (Note: If you really need to work on a computer and do not have the proper anti-static equipment, it is usually OK if you make sure that you do not move much, do not wear static-prone clothing; manage components of the edges, and regularly (once a minute or two), touch a grounded object) .. the metal case of your PC power is usually something related to proper grounding. As noted above, touching every few minutes while you work on your PC if you do not have a bracelet. 

Turn off your computer and turn off the power to the wall before installing or removing components - they are powered components, they are installed or removed, they can be seriously damaged. To have a computer grounded, you have plugged into the wall but off to food and to the wall. A neutral line may be connected to earth 

Never cut the prong grounding your power cord. This "safety ground" stands between you and threatening within the supply voltages. 

Beware of sharp edges! Many cases of low-end PCs have sharp unfinished edges. This is especially true on the inner surfaces, and where the case has been cut or punch. Be careful and take your time to avoid cutting your hands.If your case has this problem a little time with sandpaper before beginning construction can save you a lot of pain. 

Dismantling discrete electronic components such as your diet or the monitor is dangerous. They contain high voltage capacitors, which can cause a serious electric shock if touched. They hold an office, even when the device is not plugged in and are capable of delivering a fatal shock.


Start by putting your case down on your work surface, with the case door facing up, and open the case.





Find the motherboard standoffs (spacers) that should have come with the case. They are screws, usually brass, with large hexagonal heads that are used so that you can attach the screws at the top. They hold the motherboard off the avoidance of a short circuit. Set them aside.

I/O Panel Shield of an ATX Motherboard
Remove the I/O Shield from the back of the case where the ports on the back of the motherboard will fit, and put in the I/O Shield that came with your motherboard. There may be small metal tabs on the inside of this face plate, if so you may have to adjust them to accommodate the ports on the back of the motherboard.
Some case styles make it difficult to install the motherboard or the CPU with the power supply installed. If the power supply is in your way, take it out and set it aside (we'll put it back in later).
Now locate the screw holes on your motherboard and find the corresponding holes on the motherboard plate (or tray) in the case. Put a standoff in each of these holes on the tray and position the motherboard so that you can see the holes in the top of the standoffs through the screw holes in the motherboard.
Now is the time to make sure the ports on the motherboard are mating with the backplate you just installed, and make any necessary adjustments. The small metal tabs are intended to make contact with the metal parts of the connections on the back of the motherboard and ground them, but you may have to bend these tabs a bit to get the ports all properly mounted, this is where those needle-nose pliers may come in handy.

Now fasten a screw through each of the motherboard screw holes into the standoffs underneath. These screws should be snug but not tight, there is no reason to torque down on them, hand tight is fine, otherwise you can damage the motherboard.
Once the motherboard is installed, it is time to plug the other components.


An example of a CPU socket, Socket A
Installing the CPU, and the CPU’s  and fan, are by far the most difficult steps you’ll have to complete during your build. Here, more than anywhere else, it will pay to read the instructions carefully, look at the parts, study the diagrams that came with your CPU and/or third party cooling solution, and make sure you thoroughly understand what you are going to do before you try to do it. During the process, if anything does not seem to fit or make sense, put the parts down and look things over carefully before you proceed. Some operations, especially installing the heat-sink/fan combination, can require pretty firm pressure, so don’t be afraid to push a little harder if you’re sure everything is set up correctly.
The details of the installation process differ in slight but important ways for each manufacturer’s processors, and even within a manufacturer's product line. Therefore, for these details, you should rely on the instructions that are provided with the CPU.
The two things that go wrong the most often and most expensively (minimum of a killed CPU, sometimes more) in building one's own computer are both related to the CPU and its cooler:
  1. Switching the computer on "just to see if it works" before adding any CPU cooling unit. Without cooling, CPUs heat up at extreme rates (a CPU heats up anywhere between ten times and a thousand times as fast as a cooking area on your stove!) By the time you see the first display on the screen, your CPU will already be severely overheating and might be damaged beyond repair.
  2. Mounting the CPU cooler improperly. Read the instructions that came with your CPU and cooler very carefully and ensure you are using all components in the correct order and correct place.
If you purchase a third cooling solution for your CPU make sure you get one that is compatible with the CPU you have. Most brands come with multiple formats to suit many different chips, but it is best to check compatibility just in case.
If you use thermal paste, apply only to the CPU die (the square of silicon in the middle of the CPU) and do so sparingly - most modern processors do not take more of a hazelnut paste thermal the size of a grain of rice. Some people like to wipe a bit on the surface of the heat sink, then wipe it gently off so that bits of it can get into small holes for better heat transfer. See instructions Arctic Silver for more information on how to apply and remove heat / grease dough. (It was written to be specifically for Arctic Silver paste, but the same techniques can be applied to other brands of thermal paste.)
If you use a thermal pad that came with your cooler, make sure to remove the protective tape from the die just before installation and does not get dirty - and do not combine thermal pads with thermal paste, it is one or the other. Then make sure you install the cooler in the right direction and you set it flat on the CPU die without exerting undue pressure on the edges or corners - the latter can make small pieces of die break, killing the CPU .
One option that you can consider before installing the heat sink, is to "tour" of the heat sink, which means to smooth the bottom surface. To do this, you will need a very flat surface; a piece of thick glass window will work. Fasten your sandpaper on the flat surface, turn the heat sink on the sandpaper and sand in small circles, applying minimal pressure. Check frequently and when you see a consistent pattern of stripes, moving to a finer sandpaper fine-grained (the numbers go up as the sandpaper is finer, so something like 220 ​​is coarse while 2000 will be fine.) Remember that you do not try to remove any material, just polish the surface irregularities. If you get it right, you should have a surface which feels completely smooth to the touch (but not touching the oil from your fingers can cause corrosion of the fresh surface) with a mirror finish. Some companies producing radiators lick the surface themselves, if the surface already looks like a perfect mirror, leave it alone. A lapped heatsink is more efficient because it will better surface contact with the chip have.
Tighten the cooler using only the specified holding devices - if you've done everything right, they will adapt. If they do not match, check your configuration - probably something is wrong. After mounting the radiator, connect the fan's power cable that is attached to the cooler.
Passing to the instructions above, it has been my personal experience that the mounting of the processor and heat sink is best done on a surface (a phone book on a table in my case) before installation, to avoid excessive flexing of the motherboard.
If you have the CPU and its cooler installed, and the mother in the case, you're over the hump, there just a little more easy pieces to go before memorable first power

Memory slots

RAM module in a socket
Next, you will need to install your RAM (random access memory). Find the RAM slots on your motherboard; they will look something like the picture on your left. To install the RAM modules, first push on the levers (white plastic in the picture) on either side of the DIMM socket, so that they move to the sides. Do not force them, they should move fairly easily.
Put the RAM module in the socket. Line up the notch in the center of the module with the small bump in the center of the RAM socket, making sure to insert it the right way. Push down on the module until both levers move up into the notches on the sides of the module. There should be a small "snap" when the module is fully seated. Although this does require a fair bit of force, do not overdo it or you may break the RAM module.

Different types of RAM modules
Take a good look at your seated RAM, if one side seems to be higher than the other, odds are it is improperly seated - take it out and try again. As you handle the RAM, try not to touch the copper stripes you can see along the bottom edge, as doing so is the best way to damage the part.
Start adding RAM at the slot labeled "Bank 0" or "DIMM 1". If you do not have a stick in "Bank 0" or "DIMM 1" the system will think there is no RAM and will not boot.
On newer motherboards with 4 slots, you'll see alternating colours. For example, slot 1 is blue, slot 2 is black, slot 3 is blue, slot 4 is black.
If you were to put 1 gigabyte of RAM in your PC, it is best to use dual channel 512MBx2 sticks. Put the first 512MB stick in slot 1, and put the 2nd stick in slot 3 (the two slots that are blue) - leaving slot 2 empty. This will give you better performance, vs. putting 1GB in slot 1, or two 512MB sticks in slot 1 and 2.

Power supply

Installing your power supply is pretty straightforward, if it came with your case it was pre-installed and if you took it out earlier to get the motherboard in, now is the time to put it back. Otherwise a few moments of screwdriver work will get the job done. Generally there will be a bracket on the top of the case where the power supply is mounted and a few screws used to fix it in place. Some cases place the Power Supply differently, see the documentation that came with yours.
Some power supplies come with modular cables, so you can plug in only those you’ll be using, now is a good time to figure out what you’ll need and plug them in. Other power supplies have all the cables hardwired in, you’ll want to separate out the ones you’ll need and neatly coil the remainder somewhere out of the way.
If your power supply has a switch to select 115v or 220v make sure it is set properly, this is important. Many newer power supplies can automatically select and don’t have such a switch.
Once you get the power supply installed you should plug the main power, a 20 or 24 pin plug, into the motherboard. There may also be an additional four or eight pin power lead on the motherboard that needs to  be plugged in, this is usually located near the processor socket. Make sure you check the motherboard documentation carefully for the location of the power sockets.

Video card

Insert the card into a matching slot on the motherboard.
If your motherboard has a built-in video adapter you want to use, skip this section.
If you have an AGP video card: Install the video card into the AGP socket. This is always the top expansion slot near the back of the computer. AGP slots are often brown, but can also be strange colours such as fluorescent green. Check the motherboard for levers (or similar devices) that are part of the AGP slot to help hold the card in place. These must be retracted before insertion of the card. Check the motherboard's manual for information on how to use these devices (if your motherboard has one.) Push the card into the socket (AGP slots are often pretty tight, do not be afraid to push it until it is well inserted), then screw it in at the top of the metal bracket. If it has a power connector, connect it to a 4-pin molex connector. If it has a pass through, do not connect it to a hard drive.
If you have a PCI Express video card, install it the same way as an AGP video card, however the slot where it goes looks a little different having an extra spot on the slot as opposed to the 2 slot parts on an AGP slot. PCI Express slots used for video cards are commonly 16x as opposed to AGP 8x.
When your card is properly installed the line formed by the top of the card will be exactly parallel to the motherboard, if one side seems to be higher than the other, chances are that it is not fully inserted, press a little harder on the high side or pull it out and try again.

Installing drive jumpers

The drive jumpers are in the middle (between the connector for the cable and the power connector) but the location may vary.
If you are using SATA drives there is no need to adjust jumpers -- you can skip this section.
Before you install IDE/ATA (PATA) drives, you will need to set the drives jumpers. Each IDE/ATA channel can handle two drives, a master and a slave. Consult your drive's instructions on how to set the jumpers. The jumper configurations are usually either printed on the back, or on the top of the drive. Drives can be configured in 2 ways: Drive Select or Cable Select.

A jumper
  • "Cable select": Use this if you have 80-pin cables. Cable select automatically assigns slave/master based on the plug on the IDE cable the drive is plugged into. Put the jumper on CS.
  • "Drive select": If you are using a 40 pin cable, you must use "drive select". Master/slave status is determined by the jumper. In this mode, configure the drive on the end connector as the master, and the drive connected to the middle connector as the slave. If the IDE channel has only one drive, check your motherboard documentation for the appropriate setting, which is usually master.
Note that Drive Select will always work, while Cable Select will only work if you have the proper cable.

Installing drives

Next install the hard drive and optical drives.
How a drive is physically installed will depend on the case.

A Serial ATA connector

Floppy Disk Drive Cable
Most new drives are SATA (Serial ATA) which use simple, small cables for a data connection. The ends of the cables are L shaped, just look carefully at the cable ends and the connector on the drive and match them up. Only one drive can be connected to each SATA port on the motherboard. Some SATA drives have two different power ports - make sure you connect ONLY ONE of these ports to the power supply, connecting both can damage the drive.
Older drives have PATA (Parallel ATA) connections which use a flat ribbon (IDE) cable for data connection. When using an IDE cable, plug the two connectors that are closer together into the 2 drives, and the third to the controller or motherboard. The connector furthest from the board should be attached to the drive set as Master. Make sure the drive that you will install your OS on is the primary master. This is the master drive on the Primary IDE bus which is usually the IDE 40 pin port on the motherboard labeled “Primary” or “IDE 1”..

IDE connectors are often keyed, as to prevent inserting them backwards. It does not take much force to bypass this and possibly ruin your motherboard. Look carefully at the drive and the cable connection before you try to connect them. You should see a "missing" pin on the drive, and a corresponding blocked socket on the connector. If you break a pin on the drive, you will probably have a worthless drive.
Most parallel IDE cables have a colored stripe down one side. That colored stripe signifies "pin 1" - and usually will line up next to the molex power connection on your drive. Use this rule of thumb if your connectors are not keyed.
Next, plug a 4 pin molex power connector into each hard drive and optical drive. If you are installing the power connector to a SATA drive, some drives have the option of using either the SATA power connector (a flat about 1" wide connector) or the standard molex connector; use one or the other, not both. Connecting both can break your hard drive. For better data transfer, you can purchase heat-protected high-end data cables at your nearest electronics store.
If you install a floppy disk drive, the cable is very similar to the IDE cable, but with fewer wires, and a strange little twist in the middle. Floppy drives do not have master/slave configurations. The floppy disk connector is not usually keyed, making it all too easy to plug it in the wrong way! One wire in the IDE cable will be colored differently: this is pin 1. There is usually some indication on the floppy drive as to which side this is. The power plug for a floppy is 4 pins in a line, but rather smaller than the standard hard drive power connector. Plug the end of the cable with the twist into the floppy drive ("drive A:"). Plug the other end of the floppy ribbon cable into the motherboard. If you install a second floppy drives, plug the middle connector into "drive B:". The twist between drive A: (on the end) and drive B (in the middle) helps the computer distinguish between them.

Other connections

Some cables are attached to pins on a board (e.g. motherboard or extension card)
In order to turn the computer on, you will need to connect the power button and while you are at it, you might as well do the reset buttons and front panel lights as well.

There will be a set of pins, usually near the front edge of the motherboard to which you will attach the cables sometimes already connected to the the front of the case, or if needed supplied with the motherboard. Most of the time the plugs will be labeled as the pins they will connect to in the motherboard, there they can be difficult to read since the print is very small or you may not be in the right orientation to do so. The documentation that came with your case and motherboard should tell where these connectors are.
The front panel LEDs are polarized: usually the positive wire is a color while the negative wire is white or black, this may be important if you have to do alterations or do not have the proper cables.
In addition, you can connect any case-specific ports if they are supported by the motherboard. Many cases have front mounted USB, Firewire and/or sound ports.
Other connections of this type to remember can be power for the CPU fans, various temperature sensors and Wake-on LANE cables (if the feature is supported) from the network card to the motherboard.

Prepare for power up

Some people will put power to a system several times during assembly and for experienced builders this may serve some purpose. For first timers though, it’s best to assemble a minimal complete system before powering up. Minimal because that way there are comparatively few potential sources of trouble, complete so that you can test everything at once and because the fewer times you have to put power to an open machine, the better..
If you’ve been working along with us you should now have such a minimal system put together. Briefly this includes a case with a motherboard in it, a processor (and its cooling unit) and some RAM plugged into the motherboard, hard and floppy drives installed, and some kind of video available. If your motherboard has built-in video, you might want to use that for this first try, even if you are going to install a video card later.
For this test, you’ll want to have the computer open, so that you can see all of the fans, and you’ll need to connect a monitor and a keyboard and a mouse (OK, you don’t really need the mouse . . .)

Comparison of VGA, DVI and HDMI
Monitors will either have a VGA, DVI, or a new HDMI plug (see picture, as they are a lot less apparent than PS/2 / USB by comparison). Most monitors use VGA connectors, and so most graphics cards have VGA output. If you have one type of plug and the graphics card has another, you can easily buy an adapter. Some cards even come with one.
There are two standard connectors for mice and keyboards; PS/2 connectors and the more modern USB connectors. Plug the mouse and keyboard in the appropriate slot.
Note: If you intend to install an operating system from a boot CD or floppy, or modify BIOS settings you will need to use either a PS/2 keyboard, a USB to PS/2 converter, or a motherboard that supports USB devices. Otherwise your keyboard will not work until the operating system has loaded USB drivers.
Once you have this all set up, it’s time to double check, then triple check that you have made all the necessary connections and that you haven’t left any foreign objects (where’s that screwdriver?) in the case.

Power up

Take a moment to check one more time that everything is as it should be. Make sure you've removed your wrist strap, turn on the monitor, then press the power button, and observe the inside of the open machine. (Do not touch any part of the inside of the machine while it is powered up – you will NOT die but your computer might.) The first thing to look for is that the CPU cooler fan spins up, if it does not, cut the power immediately. This fan should start up right away; something is wrong if it doesn’t and your CPU is in danger of overheating so stop now and troubleshoot.
NOTE: If you have a Gigabyte brand motherboard, the CPU fan may twitch and stop turning. Wait 10-15 seconds and it should start. If it does not, there is a problem and you should immediately cut power as stated above. Other fans such as case fans should turn on and spin.
If the CPU fan spins up, check that all the other fans that should be spinning – case fans and fans on the power supply and video card (if installed) are also spinning. Some of these fans may not spin up until a temperature threshold is passed, check your documentation if anything is not spinning.
If the fans spin, you can turn your attention to the monitor, what you are hoping to see is the motherboard’s splash-screen, usually featuring the manufacturer’s logo. If you see this, take a moment to bask in the glow, you’ve built a computer!
If this happy event does not occur, if smoke appears, or if the computer does not do anything, unplug the power cord immediately and check the steps above to make sure you have not missed anything. Give special attention to the cables and power connections. If the computer does appear to come on, but, you hear beeps, listen carefully to the beeps, turn the computer off, and refer to your motherboard's manual for the meaning of the beeps. Some boards have an optional diagnostic device, usually a collection of LEDs, which when properly plugged in will inform you of the nature of the problem. Instructions for installing this as well as the meaning of its display should be in the manual for the motherboard. If the computer turns on but the only thing that comes on is your power supply, turn it off. This probably means something is shorted, and leaving it on could damage the parts.
If all is well it is time to turn the computer off, and close it up. Then you may want to turn it on again and set certain options in the Computer's BIOS (usually by pressing 'F1' or 'Del' a few seconds after boot.) These options will be explained in the motherboard manual. In general, the default options are OK, but you may wish to set the computer's hardware clock to the correct time and date. The BIOS is also where you determine the default boot order of the system, typically Floppy, then CD-ROM, then Hard Disc.
If you want a further quick test, before you install an operating system, you may find a bootable CD-ROM such as xtremely useful.

Additional hardware and peripherals

Now that you have a working system it’s time to think about installing an operating system, which is covered in the next section. It’s best to leave the installation of additional components (like sound-cards, modems, and second video cards) and peripherals (printers, joysticks, etc. ) until after the OS install in order to allow the plug n’ play features of the OS to do their trick.
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How To Build A PC: From Component Selection To Installation

How To Build A PC

Many of the people who land on the material Tom are already deeply passionate about technology and Computer hardware. But we know that others seek to learn more. We are an inclusive group. So if you've never built your own PC, do not be afraid. Our editorial team does it all the time, and we are happy to guide you through the steps, starting with the right parts.

There is a good chance that even if you have not received your dirty hands inside a case, you still have a basic understanding of the components that go inside. Experienced builders often have their ideal configuration in mind before choosing a case. But even a seasoned professional to be sure everything is to fit inside the frame on the right. And of course, envelopes vary depending on what you want to do with your PC. Home theater systems, the all-in-one boxes flashy game and workstations business focused all have their own requirements.

Traditional case following size categories below. However, more modern designs tend to diverge from those defined in the name of differentiation standards. Mid-tower designs, for example, are now in almost full scale tower. To make matters more confusing, they can even be called tricks of its own, even if they do not have the drive bays inside that used to define the form factor.

Complete revolutions were traditionally large enough to accommodate two power supplies, but many had a second rack hard drive where you would expect to find high power. The interior of a full frame is useful under certain tower configurations; However, most home users (and most fans) just do not have enough material to fill it.

ATX mid towers are usually able to hold the motherboard in full-screen mode, the power supplies in full screen mode, multiple optical drives in full screen mode (DVD and Blu-ray burners), and multiple hard drives. Well-designed units, as Cooler Master Storm Enforcer (above left) are well suited for gamers and video, simply because they support a greater number of expansion cards and disks harder than the smaller units. A comparison of our current cases reviewed models ten years ago show that good ideas to the test of time.

Most cases give you room for seven expansion slots around back. Usually this is enough for a pair of graphics cards, add in the sound, and even rear panel brackets exposing the USB or eSATA connectivity. But let's say you love your games, and you're dead set on building a system with three or four graphics cards. Research specifically on ATX case with eight or more expansion slots may be necessary, since the high-performance cards are thick cooling solutions that use the slot hole of the case for ventilation.

MicroATX mini-tours are almost as versatile as among the towers in applications ranging from office workhorses of high-end liquid cooled monster game SLI hungry because of their less imposing and easier trasportability profile. Mini-tours typically support one or two optical and one or two hard disks drives, and the microATX form factor support up to four expansion slots. All these limitations are acceptable for most users.

Cubes Mini-ITX typically support a single expansion card and the smaller blocks, although little oversized-Lian Li PC-Q08 above (center) supports larger parts supply. Based primarily on the features and integrated functionality, these space-saving speakers were once good as platforms at work and productivity oriented. Now, thanks to the host and graphics more efficient processors, we also have access to machines and ultra-compact home theater consoles games. Although you often see these referred to as "small form factor", the term form factor is better applied to the mini-ITX motherboard found inside. Variations aesthetic cube still support the form factor ATX and microATX.

Once used to raise small CRT to eye level on the dishes offices, for horizontal desktop today are mostly cosmetic changes for home theater systems. They range from game-themed mini-ITX Raven RVZ01 (bottom center of the photo above) for full ATX stands eight inches tall, wearing on their sides. Several thinner models use special expansion cards half-height, although the model shown above uses a right angle adapter (called a riser card) to place a full size graphics card on the side. If the expansion is important to you, beware of models that use a supply custom size, as those can not be upgraded.

You want something smaller? The yellow box above the most compact we've tested to really be considered a performance-oriented engine unit. Called the Brix Pro, it holds two modules notebook memory size, an edge on mSATA SSD and a 2.5 "laptop. Courtes units are available with single-drive performance even scaled and Intel even jumped on the bandwagon with its small NUC (Next Unit [of] Computing) apparently similar form factor. most of these machines are available either as a barebones system (no disks or memory) or a complete PC, and all use power adapters, notebook external style.

How To Build A PC: From Component Selection To Installation

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Apple Logic Board Repair - What the Apple Stores Do Not Want You to Know

Apple has been having a rash of video problems with their computers.

I see an increase in people mailing in their Macintosh and PowerBook to save money on the price of Apple stores. There seems to be an almost built in design flaw with the design of the apple logic board. We decided to find a way to repair it and save people a lot of money in the process.

Fast forward a few years and now we are fixing these motherboards on almost every single apple products online!

If you have been told by the apple store, you need a new computer, they are wrong!

The interiors and exquisite venues cost money!

Who pays for all this?

The client.

We are working to spread the word that you can not hear the truth when your computer is diagnosed by a pimple face, would be genius!

Make sure when you pick up a position in the center of apple repair, you find one that has the knowledge to solve the problem correctly and make sure that you will be supported through the repair process

Apple computers are very expensive, just do not throw this money. The repair is a viable option, as long as you have an expert do the repairs. Do not make a costly mistake, make the right choice and get a second opinion.

He who does not stand to profit from selling you a computer!

Apple needs to pay for these places and yes the rent has to come from customers, in a way.

Hey Guys U like this Post ??  Plz Comments :) Thankew :)

Saturday, 31 August 2013

A Brief Look at Computer Hardware

The hardware is a device that is connected to the computer, and it is in a physical form. Keyboards, mice and monitors are examples of hardware that we can touch. However, software such as the Windows operating system is not considered material because it has no physical form, or we can touch.

Examples :Computer Hardware

This material is found not only in personal computers, but the term can be attributed to any physical part of a computer system or a larger network. However, hardware in modern PCs include screen, motherboard, processor, RAM, expansion cards, power supply, optical drive, hard drive, keyboard and mouse. All these components of a computer have fitness, and anyone can touch them. For example, if someone bought the Microsoft Office disk to install MS Word on their computer so we can say that the disc is a type of material because it has a physical form. In contrast, stored inside application of this disc such as Microsoft Word is not material because it exists only in a digital format, and have no physical appearance.

New type of hardware In amritsar

Similarly, removable drives such as CD-ROM and CD-W are common types of this material that are used to store data and large files. Today, the USB flash drives are more common, and they replace CD faster than preferred for storing temporary data equipment. In the near future, other PC hardware called solid state drive will replace hard drives because it contains no moving parts, and takes up much less space. Thus, hard disks, USB flash drives and solid state drives are other examples of computer hardware.

PC Hardware or Hardware: What's the difference?

The material is a term used for physical objects of technology such as the PC, but words such as equipment and hardware are also synonymous. Therefore, it is not uncommon to use terms such as hardware and computer hardware, interchangeably. For example, a processor may be called either hardware or hardware. Usually all physics related to computers is called PC hardware. Otherwise, objects such as keys, locks, door handles, electrical son, tools, cutlery, machine and most things metal cutting are commonly known as hardware, and found in hardware stores.

With know your material, you need to buy computer peripherals like computer mice. Dan's blog about the Logitech RX300 [] examines the Logitech mice, including the popular Logitech MX500 []. Take a look if you're in the market for a computer mouse.

A Brief Look at Computer Hardware,   Best Computer Hardare In amritsar

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